Tom Parker Bowles & Charlotte Kristensen: YOU magazine's brilliant restaurant critic and wine expert
EATING OUT
Rock stars love the unshowy Italian spot Riva, in Barnes, West London – and it's a hit for Tom, too
'You must have the soft-shelled crabs, moeche, just in from Venice,' says Dorothy, Andrea Riva's stern but utterly lovely right-hand woman. We must, and we do, and they are indecently sweet and crisp, three mouthfuls of saline-scented delight.
Dorothy has been at Riva, an Italian restaurant in Barnes, for as long as I can remember. Which must be at least 20 years. You learn right from the start that it's always best to follow her advice. Or that of Andrea, the capo – tall, elegant with an eternal twinkle in his eye.
These days, it's quite a schlep to Barnes, what with that damn Hammersmith Bridge still being closed. Still, Riva is one of those restaurants you'd cross burning deserts on bare knees to reach.
Rock stars love the unshowy Italian spot Riva, in Barnes, West London – and it's a hit for Tom, too. Pictured: Riva's 'indecently sweet and crisp' soft-shelled crabs
It's as much a discreet club (although open to all) as it is a restaurant, a place that inspires quietly fervent adoration.
On any day, you might see rock stars (impromptu late-night jam sessions are not unknown), actors (Stanley Tucci, a man who really knows his gnocchi. And who's here, at his usual table), writers and well-heeled locals. Restaurant critics too.
The late, great A A Gill was a regular, as is Fay Maschler, and Matthew Fort, with whom I'm lunching today.
But there's nothing showy or pretentious about Riva. It's a broad, democratic church and one entirely worthy of worship.
At times, Riva can feel like a large dinner party, as tables chat to each other, and Andrea wanders around the room, telling tales and pouring you a glass of his new favourite wine, while Dorothy ensures things are immaculately run.
And although the food has a strong Lombardian accent, you rarely need to see a menu. 'What's good today?' we ask.
'Everything,' replies Dorothy with a smile. Before reeling off the specials. I eat vitello tonnato, thin slices of pink veal coated in a cool, gloriously rich tuna sauce, softly pungent with anchovies, and studded with salty capers.
Then spaghetti vongole with bottarga – cured mullet roe – another special. The pasta has just the right amount of bite, the plump, briny bivalves tossed in with a generous hand. The bottarga adds a mellow, gently fishy burr.
It's as fine a plate of pasta as you'll eat anywhere. Matthew, not easily pleased, agrees. We share a plate of good cheese, and a couple of grappas, and chatter deep into the afternoon. If only all lunches were this divine.
About £35 per head. Riva, 169 Church Road, London SW13; riva.restaurant
DRINKS: Charlotte's appetising Albariños
For more than 70 years, 1 August has been Albariño Day. The flagship white grape from the rugged coastal region of Galicia, in northwest Spain, unites bright citrus and refreshing stone fruits with a mineral zing reminiscent of the sea. It's also grown across the border in Portugal, where it's known as Alvarinho, while exciting examples can be found elsewhere in the world, including South Africa.
For more than 70 years, 1 August has been Albariño Day. The flagship white grape from the rugged coastal region of Galicia, in northwest Spain, unites bright citrus and refreshing stone fruits with a mineral zing reminiscent of the sea
VIÑA TABOEXA ALBARIÑO 2022 (12.5%), £9.99, Waitrose.
This crisp white pairs perfectly with seafood, boasting zesty notes and a hint of bottled Atlantic sea air – a well-priced own label from Waitrose.
BOWL GRABBER ALVARINHO 2022 (12.5%), £10.50, Ocado.
The pure joy evoked by the jazzy label is captured in this sunny Vinho Verde wine, delivering zingy fruit and a refreshing mineral finish.
Here's a tropical and warm expression of Albariño from this leading South African wine region that maintains its characteristic bright acidity
SPIER ALBARIÑO 2022, STELLENBOSCH (13%), £11.99, Majestic Wine.
Here's a tropical and warm expression of Albariño from this leading South African wine region that maintains its characteristic bright acidity.
SOALHEIRO ALVARINHO 2022 (12.5%), £18.75, thewhiskyexchange.com.
From top Portuguese producer Soalheiro, this serious white showcases intense sweet citrus and fragrant florals. There's ageing potential, but no need to wait – it's already delicious.
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